Ready-made, Made-to-measure, Bespoke

While the "suit quality" spectrum is very broad, there are four fundamental categories of garment construction that can help begin to determine where an individual suits sits. Importantly, though, because the quality of a suit is also determined by several other factors (such as the skill of the tailor and the quality of material used), the categories can often overlap.


Ready-made, machine-made
A ready-made (or “off-the-peg”) suit is one that is available for immediate purchase, usually from a high-street clothes store. The manufacturer’s designers create a basic pattern which, according to their interpretation, will fit most of the general public. The production systems for such garments have improved in both quality and speed in recent years, with good quality suits now being made in only several minutes. As a result, the ready-made suit sits at the lower end of the cost spectrum.

Importantly, though, it isn’t just mass market brands that utilize these systems, but also designer labels. So although a brand name will help sell a suit, it won't necessarily help fit a suit. As always, you should be guided by the fit and the feel of the cut of a particular brand (in particular, how the jacket fits around the neck and shoulders), as well as the quality of fabric and construction. These aspects should remain priorities: suits made by Hugo Boss or Armani may cost more than Marks & Spencer or Brooks Brothers, but they may not always fit better as a result.

Bear in mind, if the fit is close, but not perfect, alterations to ready-made suits can easily be made. Remember, if a good fit is between sizes, it is best to purchase the larger and have the excess fabric removed, rather than having a suit with too little material.

Good quality ready-made suit brands include: Marks & Spencers, Austin Reed and Brooks Brothers.

Ready-made, hand made
Less common is the hand-made ready-made suit. This suit will have been made with a high level of craftsmanship and materials (perhaps by an assembly line of tailors employing tailoring skills used on bespoke suits), but will still be designed around a basic body shape.

The fabrics in which such garments are offered are generally of the same high quality as a bespoke suit; because the workmanship is typically of such a high quality it is appropriate to make the garment in good cloth. Like bespoke, it is common to find the button holes hand-sewn and the coat made with a "floating" canvas.

Brands such as Chester Barrie, Brioni and Oxxford produce ready-made hand-made suits.

Made-to-measure
Made-to-measure is the third type of suit construction and should not be confused with bespoke.

The made-to-measure is an entirely acceptable choice for many, offering a way in which to purchase, relatively inexpensively, a well fitted suit. While a bespoke suit "outclasses" a made-to-measure suit, the latter recognizes that many cannot, or do not wish to, pay for a full bespoke suit. Made-to-measure provides an effective opportunity to create something unique, particularly as some made-to-measure tailors present various options with regard to specific parts of the suits, such as pocket details, buttons and lining colour, among others.

This method differs from the bespoke process in a number of ways, namely “that a standard cut is adjusted as far as possible to the customer’s measurement and personality”, and thus will “lack the individuality of a custom-made or bespoke suit” (Gentleman, Roetzel). Similarly, it is typically only the basic measurements that are taken, rather than the full spectrum noted during a bespoke fitting. Finally, it is important to remember that the taking of measurements does not necessarily mean that the suit will have the same level of craftsmanship seen on a bespoke suit.

In the US there is not so strong a tradition of bespoke garments and, as a result, the term "made-to-measure" is often used interchangeably, and sometimes, misleadingly. Remember that the taking of a few measurements does not mak a suit fully bespoke and the price paid matches the extent of the work.

Bespoke
A bespoke suit is one that is made to precisely fit both the body of the customer and the wishes of the customer.

As Roetzel writes, “An individual cut is devised… depending on his measurements and his requirements, and it will be precisely adjusted to his figure and his character” (Gentleman, Roetzel). In order to ensure this superior fit the tailor will take typically require a minimum of 20 measurements for the jacket and at least 5 measurements for the pants. As a result, bespoke offers a solution to individuals who may find it difficult to find suits that fit their boy shape.

As its name implies, a bespoke suit also allows the customer to voice his desires on various aspects of the suit, ranging from basic decision over color and the number of buttons to minute details such as stitching, button types and pocket style. It is then for the tailor and the cutter to convert these general wishes into a garment that can be worn and actually fits. “The really important point is for the cutter to understand the customer’s personal wishes and tastes almost intuitively, which is essential for translating them perfectly into the suit.” (Gentleman, Roetzel).

The method by which a bespoke suit is created is a very careful and gradual process, and is designed to minimize room for error. After the various measurements are taken, an initial pattern is created. This pattern exclusively reflects the stature and personal characteristics of the customer, and will be retained and verified by the tailor each time the customer comes for a new fitting. Thus, it is very common to see large piles of individual patterns adorned with names of clients at a bespoke tailors.

After the paper is drafted, the fabric, which may have been selected at the time of the fitting, and then ordered from the mill, is cut. There are several subsequent fittings to guide the tailor toward a precise fit. At this point, minor things like the presence of a wallet, keys and/or watch are all taken into consideration.

A suit is first fitted in canvas, but then is gradually covered over with increasing amounts of the outer material. The canvas remains part of the suit, but eventually “floats" between the outer shell and the inner lining, something that can felt in the finished product. Crucially, this differs from a “fused” canvas in which the various layers of the suit are fused together with glue, resulting in a less flexible ensemble that is more susceptible to dry cleaning and rain. The canvas is often shaped with horsehair, gives the jacket a lasting shape and elegant drape, and also provides the proper roll to the lapel.

In terms of actual construction, each piece of the custom garment is typically hand cut with scissors, not a machine or laser. The seams, however, are often completed by sewing machine (even at the most elite of bespoke tailors) since it ensure a straight line, although some parts of the suit is still done by hand, such as button holes, collars and pockets.

“The total time it takes to make a genuine customer made of bespoke suit is about 40 hours. 24 hours suits are impossible. A minimum of several days from measuring to the first fitting is the rule, if the tailor’s time allows. It will then usually be another six to eight weeks before the suit is finally ready” (Gentleman, Roetzel).